The self-proclaimed Pridnestrovskaia Moldavskaia Republika (PMR) – also known as Transnistria – is a narrow stretch of land between the Dniestr river in Eastern Moldova and the Ukraine. After the fall of the USSR it broke away in an independence war from the Republic of Moldova – and remains since in a ‘frozen conflict’. Acknowledged only by a few other non-recognized states, it is one of the last outposts of the old Soviet Union. The country that is not a country has its own currency (the ruble), military (backed by Russian troops), government and administration. Statues of Lenin, red stars and hammer and sickle coat of arms are found in abundance all over the country. Despite its infamous reputation as a place of arms deals and human trafficking, there is a sense of calm, peace and timelessness in the country.